December 06, 2006

WOMBOLT WEDGE CLUSTER NOTES

For those that need it, here's more detail on steps "9" and "13" from the original Wombolt instruction sheet.

Posted by Chris at December 6, 2006 04:56 PM
Comments

first

i wish i had wombolts but my stock fits are still good

Posted by: uh at December 6, 2006 05:23 PM

sooo can you tighten the bolt down pretty hard and still have the cranks spin smoothly? my 41 thermals stop turning if the bolt is tightened very much so it comes loose a few times during a session. i use a profile mid with the proper spacer in between, but ive got a tight spot without the chain on it so i might have a bent spindle...
ps i want wombolts

Posted by: justin at December 6, 2006 06:51 PM

Hello, Quick question?! any plans for shorter than 165mm wombolts? like 155mm or 160mm. My flat bike has a REALLY short back end and i have pretty big feet so i need shorter cranks. i have 152mm at the moment and its good but i would like Wombolts in the future.

Posted by: Jon at December 7, 2006 02:46 AM

@justin
Yes, you can tighten the bolt hard on ANY crank IF the spacer between the bearings is long enough.
If its too short, the cranks won't spin smoothly with the bolt pretty tight.

Posted by: idnA at December 7, 2006 05:19 AM

i'm really dumb.can somebody tell me how to get OFF the wombolts?
i have wombolts, hazard cassette, vermont sporcket and evo2 brakes, and also gary young bars.pretty sweet.odyssey rules

Posted by: ambrus at December 7, 2006 05:52 AM

use a hammer.....hahahaha....i'm joking

Posted by: smartanswer at December 7, 2006 02:33 PM

They should come loose with nothing more than a gentle tap on the arm - if you used the anti-seize compound that's included in the box (and applied it in the recommend areas).

Posted by: Chris from Odyssey at December 7, 2006 02:36 PM

"can somebody tell me how to get OFF the wombolts?"

I use a hammer, but NOT by hitting them! I`ve got a wooden handle hammer that I just put between the frame and crank arm. A little bump and off it comes, no muss, no fuss, no having to wail on them.

OH...for the cat up there asking about tightening: use the right spacer or some loc-tite ONLY on the bolt threads.

That`s my $.02

Posted by: jeffb at December 7, 2006 03:26 PM

Usually you get a crank arm off by hitting it in the direction it comes off. I find the easiest way to remove Wombolts is tapping gently in the directon you pedal. This breaks the wedge clusters "grasp" and the arm falls right off.

Posted by: Jim B at December 7, 2006 04:26 PM

yo,

iv got these cranks on layby :D wew! i cant wait :D

Posted by: matty at December 8, 2006 07:07 AM

thank you.
i brought my wombolts to my 'local' bike shop to install(my hazard casette too) and i think they made a pretty baad job, cause i had to hit my poor wombolts as an idiot would to get them off...not even a strach on them though.ODYSSEY rules.

Posted by: ambrus at December 8, 2006 07:10 AM

i was wondering the proper removal process as well... glad it was revealed... is it a bad thing to see a little bit of the wedge cluster on the inside of the crank arm? they seem tight...

Posted by: cm at December 10, 2006 07:13 PM

the wombolt cranks are the best carnks. I'm stupid

Posted by: brendan at December 19, 2006 10:50 AM

The wedge issue is explained in the original post. Separation is normal and will happen over an extended period of time.

'Bending' is ridiculous, and obviously covered by warranty. To bend the cranks would take a tremendous amount of force, enough to damage virtually anything else on the market.

Chris/Odyssey

Posted by: Chris Cotsonas at December 19, 2006 02:08 PM


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