first? yes
the hubs are sweeet!!!!!!

im second

what colors will be available? is there any chance to buy silver marmoset with black collars?

Ugh. Please tell me that the "36 hole" under Monkey is an typo.

Yes it is sorry..

Monkey is 48H

They are only available in Black.

damn those hubs look beastly

Will there be titanium bolts for the Homers?

IM' BUYING ONE FOR MY SON AND IN RETURN IM' KEEPING HIS ODYSSEY CASSETTE!

how much they gunna run?

those are crazy cool.

those are gross as fuck, throw them into the ocean

g-sport be pop in those thangs.damn best hub ever.marmoset. light,strong and lovedly..still rock UK made

Look kind of like a Chris King hub, wonder which is lighter.

g-sport will be heaver once you put a fucked up freewheel on.......i have never seen such a ugly hub in my life(g-sport).
profile shit all over chris king even if they do cost half as much.

Are these actually made in the UK (like the older ones) or in Taiwan as i have heard both versions of this?

WILL THE ODYSSEY 13T FREEWHEEL FIT THE G-SPORT REAR HUB?

the 13 tooth freewheel does fit

The hubs are the mutts nutts got a marmoset been riding it a yearish (a red one) no worries takes anything. buy one and help george....

the bolt idea is crazy.

which hub is which?

Will these hubs cost about as much as the odyssey hazard hubset or more?

finally, now ship em to australia chop chop so i can get a marmoset. thats a good boy

yes send em to australia quick hehehe

will g sport be coming out with a rear 14 mm hub 36 hole count? thank you very much.

correction needed: you wrote; MARMOSET- Probably the lightest front hub, designed for street. 270g / 9.5oz (Front)

Here are some lighter front hubs also designed for street.
Loophole; 235 grams (lighter)
Proper Magnati: 6.6oz (a lot lighter in fact lightest)
Fly matches it at 9.5oz
Demolition Bulimia 7.6oz (lighter)
Proper regular hub 7.8oz (lighter)
Just for your information.
Maybe say 'Marmoset the 6th lightest hub for street'.

Hey are these made in Taiwan now?

SO IF I WERE TO HEAT TREAT MY TITANIUM PARTS WOULD THEY GET EVEN STRONGER OR AM I JUST THROWING MY DINERO AWAY?

Are LHD hubs in this shipment?

Hey "George" you are a dumbass. None of those hubs you listed were designed for street. And ESPECIALLY the Proper Magnati one. Are you kidding me a 3/8 Titanium axel? No Way. But anyway the marmoset is 2wice as strong as all of them you jackass. And can be used with pegs.

Would you go do a toothpick on a 3/8 Ti axle?

sweet

wtf is up with the prices rising on the rims and cranks, will the extra 5 dollars a rim help that much

are the monkey or bombers flip flop or cassette?

Hey Tyler, A 3/8" Ti axle is no weaker than a steel axle, just lighter and more expensive. That is a fact. So all the other hubs including the Marmoset use a 3/8" axle, why is it the only 3/8" axle that is 'made for street'? Nice language, you know kids view this. All the hubs I listed can be used with pegs including the Proper one.

I want a Marmoset but i just bought 14mm dirtforks so will the steel spacers adaptor things still work i hope so but if it dont i will grab a Vandero

any plans for a cassette rear?

George is so wrong, NONE of the other hubs come anywhere close to as strong as the G-SPORTS. None of them are designed for street, just fake street. The bolt works a whole load different from an axle, strength wise. Its kinda like having a bolt that covers the entire length of the axle.

Correcting myself: As an after thought, none of the other hubs you mentioned are really 'designed' at all. All they are is a adaptation of a old idea for a hub, they are not offering any kind of design soloution to any of the problems.

The weak point on all hubs is the axle. Essentially a long round piece of metal, easy to bend. Secondly the bearings. And third the flanges.

All of these areas are well covered on the G-sports.

Ive been using Gsport for front hubs for about 6 years. I had a homer for 5 years, which my friend is now running. I've been using a marmoset for over a year now(from the first batch of UK made ones.) I dont do really hard aggressive street, but it has held up just as well as my Homer did. I wouldnt run any other front hubs then Gsports.

Are the Tiwain made hubs going to be as good a quality as the ones made in England???

Monkey rear + 13t freewheel = 17.5 oz.

you gotta get more of the 14mm axle nuts back on your online store cuz i really want those

the hub strength is helped with the fork strength

First of all. Shit get over it, hes a good man, the G-Sport hubs are strong but nothing super innovative, the design had been done before but never got any make from it. Same with the Fly Cobra tube, it had been done before, but no one liked it, but those both were back in the days of the huffy, so i dont know how this is going to roll over.

Whatever, your still cool geogre.

I'm sure G-sport did the hub design first. It must be good because the untouchable feat of engineering genius that is 'Profile' used a similar system. There was some sarcasm in there btw.

And those cobra style tubes have been made by Halfords for years, nobody bought em 'cos they usually resulted in a fat eggy and your wheel feeling a bit oval at high pressure.

I'm sue now they have Fly emblazoned on them they'll go like hot-cakes. Lets hope there worth it.

Will you be shipping them to Empire BMX by the end of the week?

That other George guy doesn't know what he's talking about, titanium axles aren't that strong and screw saving all that weight, i'd rather get a part that's a pound heavier and has a lifetime guarantee than something a pound lighter without the promise of it even lasting long. Titanium axles and all that other titanium junk is fine for dirt, but street I would say is a big no no.

Oh ya, G sport hubs look like they are the best hubs to buy!

Just for the record here are some proven 'ultimate tensile strength' tests between Chromoly and Titainum

1020 Steel- 380(mpa)
Standard Chromoly-435(mpa)
4130 Chromoly -650(mpa)
Titanium Grade 5- 552(mpa)
Titanium V- 1193(mpa)

Now please STFU. Also realize that most companies claim they use 4130 but actually use standard taiwan chromoly

do you plan making marmosets with silver shells and black collars? pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease!! thank you

the marmoset is for a 3/8 drop out, and while all the other hubs you said use a 3/8 axle, the marmoset doesn't. it's a mutch stronger axle, it just uses 2 bolts that are 3/8.
this is the reason why it's the lightest street hub.
all the others are not for riding street, but more park hubs. if you are a smooth rider you can get away with riding a peg on one, but most people can't.

george is a kinda a jackass. those hubs look they r very strong. i would never run one though. they r so stupid looking. its just like the elementary stem

It says that threads are helicoiled for strength does this mean al the axle are aluminium or is the homer still steel. I have a vandal rear hub and I just love the fact that I can do whatever I want to it knowing nothing wil ever happen. It just makes my bike feel so much more solid

marmoset and monkey hubs have an alloy axle, and the homer and vandal hubs have a chromoly axle, with the life time guarantee. the alloy axles only have a 2 year guarantee, but then i dont know any other hub that offers a two year guarantee on the axle.

Whats the story with life time guarantees now that they are made bt odyssey?

How long till they are available in wheelsets with Odyssey and eventually G SPORT rims?

We're fully backing the guarantees on the G-Sport hubs. If you ever have a problem, you should contact us immediately for assistance.

G-Sport rims and wheelsets will be available later this year.

Chris/Odyssey

sweet

YEAH MAN, F*CKING ODYSSEY!!!

shit sucks

YEAH, THEY KEEP PUTTING A CIELENCKI HOW TO ON A THE RIDEBMX.COM SITE AND IT KEEPS FAILING. THEY SHOULD HIRE A WEBMASTER TO DO THEIR SITE PROFESSIONALLY CUZ' IM' IN STITCHES TO SEE A CIELENCKI CLIP HES' ONE OF THE BEST RIDERS' IN MY BOOK.

so it's not only happening on my computer either^

YEAH MAN I NEED SOME TECH HELP REAL BAD! SO I BOUGHT THE THERMAL CRANKS AND THEY TWEAK AND CREAK LIKE CRAZY SO I OPT AND BUY A Ti SPINDLE AND THEY STILL TWEAK AND CREAK LIKE CRAZY!! CAN ANY ONE HELP ME OUT HERE I DIG THE CRANKS REAL HARDCORE BUT WHAT CAN I DO TO MAKE THEM STOP MAKING THESE NOISES??? PLEASE POST BACK IF ANY ONE OF YOU BIKERS' OUT THERE HAVE HAD THE SAME TROUBLE AND LET ME KNOW WHAT CAN I DO. THANKS!.

tighten it a little more, it helped me with my profile cranks

those things are hideous.

hey DBMFG, put copper slip/grease on the splines of the axle and on the spline of your crank arms. It will make them come on and off much easier, and it should get rid of the noise. the noise is being made from the axle and arm grinding against each other, so the grease should stop it.

Yeah fill em with grease, that should stop it. On the subject of cranks, anyone else know of any snapped primo excels? I know a guy just started out, not particuarly big, snapped TWO arms off his in a month... I'd buy odyssey if I didn't have a powerbite... ( I dont get on with splines)

MY FELLOW BIKERS', THANKS ALOT! PUT THE GREASE ON THE SPLINES' HEY BEN, MY SON HAS THE PRIMO POWERBITES AND THEYVE' HELD UP JUST GREAT AND HE SLAMS' THE HELL OUT HIS BIKE!! AND I WAS PLANNING ON GETTING THE EXCEL CRANKS BUT OPTED FOR THE 41 CRANKS BECAUSE OF THE WARRANTY AND THE WEIGHT RATIO, BELIEVE WHEN ODYSSEY WARRANTIES' SOME THING THEY KEEP THEIR WORD.

DBMFG, just a though, you should really use some kinda anti sieze compound on your Ti parts... I remember hearing that they like to get stuck on other metals? But copper slip or just a wadge of thick grease should do... copper slip is expensive as heck and smells funny... Id also check your drive bolt is nice and snug and that the top-hat washer is still in good shape.

Titanium axle strength. Tensile strenghth is not the only factor in longevity here. Fatigue life is. Titanium will have lesser tensile strength than chromoloy in most cases but the fatigue life is much long since chromoly has a much wider elastic zone than steel or aluminum. Basically with any peice of metal as you deform it, you push it into to area's, starting with elastic, and moving into plastic, and finally to breaking point. Chromo actually has a pretty naro elastic zone so your going to frequently push it into plastic, too many trips into the plastic zone causes A. permenant deformation of the axle and B. causes stress fractures that eventually lead to failure. With titanium, your probably going to shear off the mounting hardware long before you snap the axle in half.

The other end of hte story here though is that since titanium is going to allow more flex, that could result in greatly reduced bearing life. Bearings need a solid stable platform to ride on or they don't live very long, not to mention the fact that catridge bearings dont like tortional loads anyway, you allow the axle to flex and its likely that tortional loading will be further increased. There is a way to take care of that and that is to preload the axle by aply a good deal of tensile loading to it, and thats what i think the bolt down system is really taking care of, allows you to increase the preload on the axle.

Ben 'Polyhead' Smith Mechanical Engineer/Machinist

do u people know any one that has broken powerbites or hollowbites? oh yea odyssey should make a fucking thick hubgaurd, thincker than the fbm hubgaurd...

When are the Homer to Monkey conversion axles coming out?

Jim still sucks it.

cause i have broken so many profile crankarms

Ive Seen one set(Of power bites) Crack near the pinch bolts but they're about 4 years old thats the only set ive ever seen and its not even a very big crack>

can you tell me where I can purchace a Gspot Homo hub? Who will have them first?

nice looking hubs!

Ok, i have a hub for warentee, I was told by George on BG it was warenteeable and I could send it to you guy's for warentee, do I send it just like any Odyssey hub?

Also the freewheel is stuck on (the problem is the freewheel threads snapped off)

if you don't want to worry about the freewheel then I have another anyway.

2nd bike being done here I come. (I hope)

Send it in

Nuno/Warranty
16325 Arthur st
Cerritos, CA 90703

Just a quickie to "Polybun" - you mentioned about the flex in the axle being detrimental to bearing life, but due to the support in the hub it might not be so bad? Either way, maybe having some slightly recessed part by the bearings with some kind of steel race being put over the ti axle like a sleeve by the bearings would give a more 'stable platform' for the bearings?

Just a thought...

i had a few g-sport hubs and there are sooo many faults with em. First out the bearings, not only do they suck but they come loose, i mean they move so i had to get new ones, they moved because the first set had stretched the inner part of the hub. i had to shim the bearings to make them stop moving. Then the bolts that bend and strip ALOT. these also round off incredibly easy even with a good socket they still round off. The axles also seem to move which is dumb. plus they are/were too expensive for what they are. and they weigh alot if you care about that stuff. plus if you crack the flange OF THE HUB (where the spokes go through) gsport wont warranty them because apparently "The flange isnt PART OF THE HUB" Which is rediculous. but i guess it saved him sending me a new hub?! Im not talkin s and im not lying i just want people to know the truth about these hubs. They look nice though

Im sorry, but I don't believe a word of this.

How can you crack the flange on those hubs? Theyre so thick that im with jim on this one.